azimedes:

Hey guys, check out this video on making boob armor out of EVA foam I made with apocalypticash over at Bitch Team Alpha! Now you can all witness how awkward I am.

5 days ago | 89 ❤ | via | source

mohrigan:

Eva foam bracers tutorial

*sorry for my english if any errors*

My page: www.facebook,com/m.cosplay

  1. Use plastic wrap to cover the area you want to take out the pattern from.
  2. Then cover it with tape.
  3. Cute it and paste the pattern to paper. (I always add lil bit extra in the sides in this case added left, right and bot)
  4. Paste them to Eva foam and cut it.
  5. Add details with foamy (borders) and glue everything.
  6. The small cut you see in the back its because that way I can Fit my fist with no problem.
  7. Cover it with wood glue.
  8. Now with plasti-dip.
  9. Paint it and after it dries put a layer of modge podge.

sockai-cosplay:

ProTip: Create a stencil for lacing holes so they look evenly measured out.
I have to make over 200 of these so this method helps a lot!

1 week ago | 37 ❤ | via | source

amenokitarou:

I’m feeling educational today!
Here’s a tutorial on how I do sharp foam details on armour works.
Enjoy!

Tutorial 1: Detangling a Wig

cosplaytipsandtricks:

Reblogging because I added photos and corrected a few formatting issues. Plus, this is something many cosplayers need to know:

This tutorial is based on trial and error, snippets of other tutorials (which I lost on the old computer) and common sense. Let me first say…

How to easily make ruffles.

upsidedownalphabet:

Alternatively titled, one of the best things I have ever learned how to do.

I know there’s probably 400 of these already but whatever.

On your sewing machine you should have two dials, one for tension and the other for stitch length.

image

As you’ve probably noticed my…

trimizu said: the trim on that uniform is flawless omg is it okay if i ask how you did it?

aicosu:

cifera:

YES OF COURSE MY SON ill publish this ask because it might be useful for others

so here’s the thing with said trim

image

i would have used bias tape as usual for this, except for two things: it’s meant to be seamless-looking and metallic, neither of which you can accomplish with bias tape. SO WHAT DID I DO

this is going to sound completely crazy but it’s heat n bonded pleather vinyl. ‘why would you use heat n bond on vinyl??? are u insane??? wouldnt it melt???? did you wreck your iron???? did you burn yourself?????’ the answer to all of those questions except the last one is no.

HERES WHAT U NEED

image

heat n bond ultrahold (that’s the one in the red pack) (you can also buy it by the metre at most fabric stores i’ve been to so buy as much as you need for whatever trim you’re putting on?)

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your pleather/vinyl - the softer the better. if it has a suede or polyester backing then we’re in business

and that’s all you need aside from an iron

read the heat  n bond instructions then figure out how much trim you want. i had to cut some angular shapes so i just cut a huge square about 1.5 feet x 1.5 feet from my pleather. i cut the same amount from the heat n bond, then i ironed it on. iron it on smooth!!! then let it cool.

heat n bond has a paper backing so you can use a pencil to trace whatever shapes you need onto it. in my case it was straight lines and angles, so it was easy, but if you’re doing something more specific, remember that you have to sketch it on backwards so it shows the right way when you iron it on.

cut your shapes out and peel the backing off of them. you should have a lot of leftover. keep the leftover big chunks of paper lining. you need them!!!

line up your shapes or trims wherever they need to go. put your iron at about a medium setting, though you should test the whole thing on scrap fabric first because everyone’s iron is different.

don’t just smack your iron down because if you do you’ll melt your pleather onto your iron and all over your fabric and you’ll cry. this is where the leftover paper lining comes in handy. put it shiny side down on  top of your vinyl, then iron over the paper. you shouldn’t need to hold it down for more than a few seconds, but do it firmly and in strokes. peel the paper off right away, then wait for it to cool and test to see if it’s affixed. if it’s not, no problem- iron over it again.

the nice side effect of the ironing is that it takes the pleather from a slightly textured, leathery finish to a perfectly sleek shiny smooth one. and then you have magical metallic trims with no visible seams!!!! we all win.

*drools*

dei-sandvich:

This tutorial has been done to death, but I had all these photos of the process so I figured I’d share.

Freezer paper stencils:

Freezer paper is plastic coated on one side so when ironed on to fabric it sticks and later peels off without any residue (unless you heat it too much I guess). It’s great for painting where you won’t be using a lot of water/runny paint - water will lift the paper off your fabric and screw things up. It’s best used with dry brushing.

Now, to avoid making this long post any longer, I have captioned the images with the steps to this process.

I used acrylic paints with fabric medium in case anyone was wondering.

cosplayresources:

Simple and straightforward Bustle Cage Tutorial by fangirlasylum on DA.

+Fav the original here: http://fangirlasylum.deviantart.com/art/Bustle-Cage-Tutorial-412657738

historygirl1984:

cypheroftyr:

feministbatwoman:

jancola:

How I made scale mail out of faux leather, in case anyone finds this useful.  I used the same method for Morrigan’s camisole except that one I sewed instead of stapled.

Instructions are in the captions.

!!!!

oh my god…cosplay game too strong.

AAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!! WHY DIDN’T I HAVE THIS THREE YEARS AGO?!?!?!?!

©mcsterek