Bow, post paper mache.

Tips for paper mache-ing props:

  • For the adhesive, I used a mix of flour and water. I put some flour in a bowl, and then slowly added water to my desired consistency. You can basically do whatever consistency you want, from pancake batter to something more watery. I chose something between those two, because I wanted a lot of adhesion and I wanted it to dry quickly.
  • Note that you need to wait for each layer to dry COMPLETELY before adding another, and you need to wait for the paper mache to dry completely before any gesso or paint is applied. If you do not do this, your prop will start to grow mold and rot from the inside out.
  • To further prevent mold growth in your paper mache, you can add a tablespoon or two of salt to your liquid adhesive mix.
  • After the paper mache is completely dry, gesso the entire prop and let it dry (do this for a few layers), and then rub it with a damp sponge to smooth it out.
  • Then prime and paint away!


How to Make Female Cosplay Armor, Tutorial Part 1


Check out the full size image on my dA account - neptunyan.deviantart.com !


I have a lot to do at the moment and I’m so sorry, that the template is scribbled down so poorly, but I really hope that this will help you. The template is from the white paper armor gauntlet, but that’s actually the template I used for the black one, too. I also uploaded some pictures of the black one, because this might help a bit. I used brass fasteners and cut of the tines for a better movement. If you have any questions, just write me! xx


Coldplay hack #6: how to make fabric cut outs that don’t need hems

This is good for appliqué and other such fabric uses that you don’t want to unravel but you can’t finish the edge with a hem

Fusible webbing/ iron on interfacing
Your fabric
A stencil if desired
For Large Appliqué : take the fusible webbing and flip it to the BUMPY side!
This is the side that will attach to your fabric making it the “right side”

draw out the shape of the piece you desire(in exact dimensions) or cut out a swatch big enough that you can cut your desired piece out after ironing

To finish, set your iron to the highest setting your fabric can take, and carefully melt the interfacing glue to your fabric

Be patient, because if you do not get the edges good, it could unravel on you
Also choose a single side ( I prefer the center) and iron carefully so as not to create wrinkles or bubbles- there is nothing you can do if these occur

Small Appliqué Pieces:

You may follow the same procedure as before, but if you are making many pieces this way is faster

Cut out a swatch of webbing big enough that you could cut out all of your shapes, and carefully iron it to the back of desired fabric

Once attached, you can free hand cut your designs, or flip it over to the interfacing side and sketch your shapes for cutting *this must be a reverse image or words and such will come out backwards* so if you are using stencils, flip so that you write letters/numbers/whatever backwards

Cut out traced pieces from the interfaced fabric, and you’re done :3

Good luck

hoodedscarlet said: Hey, do you mind if I ask how you made the tails on your erisolsprite coat 'levitate' like they are? Your cosplays are incredible! uvu


Thank you! The tails are held up with wire inserted near the edge of the coat and held in place with a topstitch to make a kind of casing. 


Here I outlined where all the wire is (and why the front of my jacket flips up in some photos lol whoops). 

More grainy cellphone pics to try and explain a little better under this cut:

Read More



Matt Miller’s Jacket

Because I answer this question like four times a month.  

Okay, Matty’s jacket is seriously the easiest thing.  Here is what it looks like, and here is what I did.

I bought a cheap jacket on eBay.  I bought iron on vinyl on eBay. I stenciled the Decker symbol and ironed it onto my jacket.

The lights were purchased from Amazon.  They run on AAs and are not very bright.  I strongly suggest going through another website and getting the type of EL wire that runs on a 9 volt battery as the lights will be more vibrant.  You may need to learn to soldier, however.  Soldiering is pretty easy and there are lots of tutorials.  But if you don’t hate yourself, the cheap fix works.  

The lights were hand stitched (by Cae) to the outline of the jacket.  The lights were about 9 feet in length so we had plenty.  Finally, the battery pack was hidden in a pocket on the inside.  


Reblogging this because I keep getting emails.


Hey guys, check out this video on making boob armor out of EVA foam I made with apocalypticash over at Bitch Team Alpha! Now you can all witness how awkward I am.


Eva foam bracers tutorial

*sorry for my english if any errors*

My page: www.facebook,com/m.cosplay

  1. Use plastic wrap to cover the area you want to take out the pattern from.
  2. Then cover it with tape.
  3. Cute it and paste the pattern to paper. (I always add lil bit extra in the sides in this case added left, right and bot)
  4. Paste them to Eva foam and cut it.
  5. Add details with foamy (borders) and glue everything.
  6. The small cut you see in the back its because that way I can Fit my fist with no problem.
  7. Cover it with wood glue.
  8. Now with plasti-dip.
  9. Paint it and after it dries put a layer of modge podge.


ProTip: Create a stencil for lacing holes so they look evenly measured out.
I have to make over 200 of these so this method helps a lot!